What to do in Venice in Fondamenta degli Ormesini and Fondamenta della Misericordia. Itinerary in the other Venice, where to go to see something different and not obvious, where to eat low cost and see the Veneto region in all its facets.
This time I decided to tell you about an area of Venice, or better still, about a particular fondamenta, one of my favorites. It is one of those places in this city where anyone, even if passing through, can feel "at home", surrounded by a cheerful atmosphere, in which the Venetians mingle with (not many to tell the truth) tourists and students.
A fondamenta degli Ormesini you can get there by crossing the Jewish Ghetto, after passing the iron bridge that ends between two small houses when you leave Campo del Ghetto Novo, at this point you can go either left or right. The part that interests us, however, is the one that proceeds on the right right here, looking towards the canal you can see one of the most scenic "photographic points" in the area: a large space between two buildings, separated by a canal, crossed by dozens of wires for laundry, usually filled with clothes hanging out to dry.
Continuing you arrive at a very low sotoportego that ends on a bridge, from this point you are in Foundations of Mercy, long until the next bridge.
Certainly this area is one of the liveliest in Cannaregio, often only here is there still one restaurant open after 23pm and a good choice of restaurants and bars to stop in. But this is also one of the places it manages to be at certain times peaceful, quiet and wrapped in Venetian magic where you can only hear the sound of the water moving and your own footsteps.
Where to Eat
One of my favorite places in all of Venice is located in Fondamenta degli Ormesini and a sort of institution: Al Timon. Here I made some of the best aperitifs of the last two years, small and all in wood, with a few tables inside and a perennial crowd in front of the counter. With € 2,50 you get a spritz and with a few euros a shadow or a good glass of wine, but the best thing is cichetti: small crostini with cod, cheeses, soppressa, vegetables, salami and much more, when you are lucky you can also find baked potatoes and delicious meatballs. My favorite? Smoked ricotta with raspberry and a few drops of balsamic vinegar. Unfortunately they cost 1 € each and you would need a tray to satiate yourself, but a couple to accompany the chosen drink can never be missing. The peculiarity of this place, however, is also that, in addition to the tables inside and outside, on the canal there is also a boat, covered with wooden planks, on which you can sit to drink your aperitif and chat. Here you can also have dinner, I have always said that I wanted to try but the opportunity has not yet presented itself, however I have always seen it pass huge platters of vegetables and cut of meat, definitely inviting!
Beer lovers will satisfy their thirst From Aldo, a few meters from the Timon, where you can find bottles from all over the world. The place is one of those frequented mainly by Venetians, very spartan and with some tables on the foundations.
A little further on it is located the Mariner, here once I was a bit disappointed by a not particularly "interesting" lunch so I don't particularly recommend it for eating, but I must say that in winter it is a good solution to stay warm at aperitif time, nothing exceptional but the typical Venetian osteria.
Passing through Fondamenta della Misericordia you will find the Lost paradise, another inevitable meeting place. A special memory is linked to this place: my first lunch in Venice, with a friend who has lived in the area for some time and who "initiated" me to the city! Here with ten euros you can get a mixed plate of many good things that are displayed on the counter in large pans: the last bacarata with the classmates ended here with a huge plate of creamed cod and a basket of bread to divide after midnight. Here you can come both at lunchtime, but also in the afternoon for an aperitif and dinner. Rustic, spartan and “onto” atmosphere as they would say here, but cheerful, often there is also live music. Certainly not the best place for a romantic dinner, but more suitable for an evening with friends, perhaps sitting on the foundations, as the tables are almost always full.
New this year is instead VinoVero, a small little place with many bottles exposed to the walls. Perfect for the summer when there are large carpets outside to sit on and three hammocks hanging from the bricole. Sometimes they are also proposed tasting evenings where wine and good food are accompanied by live music.
What to do
On this foundation there are no large museums or churches of great importance, but this does not mean that it is less interesting than many other places in the city.On the contrary, one of the most fun events has been organized here for some years and manages to involve everyone with the its peculiarity: I'm obviously talking about Foundation 3.0 (which actually last year was 2.0) organized by Purospaziocomune. An afternoon and an evening when in the most hidden corners, in the side streets, in the small fields, on the foundations and in the adjacent canal artistic initiatives, entertainment and the most varied activities: from piñatas to be destroyed in the shape of a cruise ship to musical objects, through rowing boat itineraries and a large naval battle designed and much more.
The last photograph is by Rui Ornelas