A low cost lunch in Calabria? We take you to the Agriturismo Aru Castagnu between Belmone and Fiumefreddo, in the province of Cosenza. A place to eat well, low cost and above all in good company.
A green valley overlooking a blue sea.
An olive grove, three goats, a small vineyard, many beautiful chestnut trees and the smell of good things that begins to be felt even before getting out of the car.
We are Calabria, between Belmone and Fiumefreddo in the province of Cosenza, exacting in locality Chestnut. After a morning spent playing with the breakers of the Tyrrhenian Sea (how beautiful is the sea of childhood?), The appetite begins to make its way inexorable. Nor too slowly.
We therefore decide to leave the Belmonte beach to enter the mountain behind us and which in Calabria is a constant, albeit discreet, presence. You begin to realize that this is a predominantly mountainous region when you leave the coast and the road becomes winding, winding and difficult, like the very nature of this territory.
Vicenzo welcomes us, who has a serious face and an attentive and very blue gaze and makes us sit on the veranda of his farmhouse, obviously called "Aru Castagnu"(Al Castagno). Here everything is self-produced, from eggs to cheese, from meat to pasta. Vicenzo's mother is in the kitchen and is the main creator of the delicacies that are served to the enthusiastic diners. There's a menu of the day which varies according to the products available and the season, but which includes some great stars of Calabrian gastronomy: handcrafted cold cuts, eggplant meatballs, grispelle with anchovies and without, potato omelette, parmigiana, giardiniera, mushrooms (for those who don't know, in Calabria there are porcini mouth-watering), tagliatelle with porcini mushrooms, salads, grilled meat and sausage for those who like it.
In my opinion, i Fried they were amazing. Perfectly golden, crunchy on the outside and soft inside, not heavy at all, hot at the right point. My palate was thrilled especially by the grispelle, typical Christmas preparation actually. They are donuts (but they can also have other shapes and other names depending on the province in which they are prepared), of flour and boiled potatoes (even if the latter are sometimes not used), fried and served warm, which if done well are a delight that cannot be renounced. Homemade dessert (tart), fruit and amaro (homemade nocino of course).
All for twenty euros each (twenty-five if you also eat the second, of meat in general). A real farm, without any deception or forcing. Without chic or vintage additions. No rush, typically mountain courtesy (straightforward and practical), fresh air, wonderful views and the proximity of several interesting points to visit (Belmonte Calabro, Fiumefreddo, Former Convent of the Capuchins of Belmonte) and the Tyrrhenian Sea which (generally) rages a few kilometers lower. Go well accompanied, because when food is good it should be enjoyed with those you love.
What: Aru Castagnu farmhouse
Where: C.da Castagno, 87100 Fiumefreddo Bruzio, Calabria
To book: 346.0392200
